Who keeps the money, the tax collector or the airline? Either way, the system seems unfair.DURING THE World Travel Market earlier this month, I asked Serbia's minister of tourism, Slobodan Celovic, about the morality of pushing the republic as a holiday destination.A verbatim transcript of that discussion. Independent travellers are not so warmly welcomed."You can say that again. Ms Cullen reports a rumour that the train had been held up, and all the passengers robbed at gunpoint. "A Swedish traveller, who would not stop videoing the proceedings, was shot for his troubles."PERHAPS WISELY, Keith Miller of Edinburgh chose to book his wife and two children on a flight to Copenhagen rather than Mexico, using frequent- flyer points. "Subsequently, we had to cancel the flights." Mr Miller understands that he loses the points, but is concerned about the pounds 40 in Air Passenger Duty that he paid: "It does seem rather unfair to be charged travel tax when you haven't travelled."It does, indeed.

The helicopter ride looked fantastic on Blue Peter, but obviously detracted from the atmosphere. The road to Divisadero (the mid-point, where trains pause for a spectacular view of the Copper Canyon) is now almost complete, enabling coachloads of tourists easy access to the now-enlarged hotel. Marguerite Cullen has long been a fan (of the railway, though no doubt of Blue Peter as well) and keeps this column updated on developments. The omens this autumn look bleak: "Helicopter flights are now passing the hotel, which obviously spoils the peace and quiet. IF YOU run a tourist attraction, you know you've made it when Blue Peter makes a film about it. The BBC's children's magazine programme bestowed this accolade on one of the world's finest train rides, the Chihuahua al Pacifico, which runs from northern Mexico down to the Pacific Ocean through an utterly implausible sequence of tunnels, bridges and loops.

Hostal Miguel de Cervantes (2-star, 00 34 91 883 1277), Calle Imagen 12. Hostal Don Juan (2-star, 00 34 91 883 3484), Calle Don Juan 1.. Or British Airways (0345 222111), Debonair (0541 500300) and easyJet (0990 292929). From central Madrid, Continental Auto runs buses every 30 minutes from Avenida de America. Fare pounds 2.50.Staying: Hotel el Bedel (3-star, 00 34 91 889 3700), Plaza de San Diego 6. Unlike its counterpart in Almagro in La Mancha, or the Globe in London, which are both reconstructions, the Cervantes is authentic evidence of four centuries of theatrical history.Already attracting international attention, perhaps this substantial addition to Alcal's heritage will tempt a few more people to a town that for too long has been written off as a dowdy suburb of Madrid.Fact FileGETTING THERE: Iberia (0171-830 0011) from London to Madrid for as little as pounds 93.